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This conversation will likely close out what has been a fascinating 2024. I’m still in Massachusetts immersing myself in the East Coast trade. The year is quickly coming to a close – it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas – and its bloody cold. In fact, I’ve come down with a cold and I’m struggling to fight it off. I honestly feel a bit mentally and physically challenged - No matter, there is one more important conversation to be had, with a distributor who has been championing Australian wine in the US for more than a decade. This conversation is with Gordon Little of Little Peacock Imports.

Gordon launched Little Peacock Imports in 2011 – the same year I graduated from high school! So, he’s had plenty of time to succumb to market forces, the drop of the Australian dollar, the industry trends that appear to have punched the Australian export wine trade in the mouth – yet Gordon is still there, Little Peacock is still operating – and Gordon says there is lots to do. This was a great opportunity to quiz Gordon on what he considers to be the talking points for Australian wine in the US – I ask some questions and he gives some suggestions. Gordon acknowledges that there is lots of work to be done, but the challenge is worth the effort.

The Australian industry needs to focus on depth, consistency, and reliability. It needs to focus on building, maintaining then strengthening relationships – matters challenged by the tyrant of distance but there is more than one way to skin a cat – sorry cats. Gordon very much considers all these things to be worth it, and it’s a cause the Melbourne born expat is very passionate about. Whether you are on the tractor, in the shop or doing anything else, I hope you find this chat insightful – and I hope I didn’t sniffle too much.

Also, given this is likely the last chat of the year, it’s been an incredible year for the CDP and I want to take this opportunity to thank everyone for supporting the show. Merry Christmas to all, and I wish you all the blessings of the season.

Now, let’s get on with the show. Ladies and gentlemen, I present Gordon Little of Little Peacock Imports.

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Aaron Ridgway serves as Head of Market for Wine Australia in the Americas, overseeing efforts across the U.S. and Canada. Leading a team of four, his work focuses on education, business development, and market entry for Australian wine in the North American market. Since transitioning from Negociants to Wine Australia in 2016, Aaron has been at the forefront of promoting Australian wine and navigating its performance in a highly competitive landscape.

In my time in the U.S., I’ve interviewed various wine professionals—sommeliers, distributors, and wine directors—about the state of Australian wine. A common theme has emerged: the challenges are many, but the opportunities are equally significant. To complement these private-sector perspectives, I turned to Aaron for his expert view, knowing his role gives him a unique vantage point on the successes and hurdles Australian wine faces.

Although our 50-minute conversation only scratched the surface, it was enough to reveal Aaron’s candid take on the current state of the market and the work needed to unlock its potential. Recent discussions with the Wine Australia team have also strengthened my belief in the opportunities ahead. Success in the U.S. fine wine market—a massive and influential $60 billion industry—will require a united push from all stakeholders. Consistent effort, collaboration, and sustained market engagement are key to building the traction Australian wine needs to thrive.

A big thanks to Aaron for sharing his invaluable insights.

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Kate Webber bends over backwards to give strong representation to Australian wine on her restaurant wine lists. She presents legacy brands, through to brands that represent the unknown middle ground of Australian wine, where the true excitement, innovation and value propositions are to be found. She extends herself and fights to get wines on her lists that ordinary would not be available given the unique three tier system. Kates love affair with Australian wine dates back decades. She was invited to Australia in 2013 as the recipient of a Yalumba Scholarship, a trip allowing her to take a deep dive into Australia’s wine landscape. Shock horror – the experience changed her life.

Kate laments the current state of Australian wine in the USA, while admitting the challenges are complicated. In this conversation we discuss what Kate considers to be the important backdrop to the problem, and the role for both Australian and US stakeholders in stepping up in fighting for Australia’s place in the USA. The USA remains the world’s largest fine wine market, valued at over $60 billion in 2023. For Kate, the time to tackle the market is now, when the times are tough, when the industry is struggling. The industry will bounce and it's important for Aus wine to be a pivotal player in that market when it does. There is so much food for thought in this conversation – what is really a call to action for those in the Australian wine market who want a piece of this very important pie.

At one point towards the start of the interview Kate and I had to manage two very loud patrons who decided to sit themselves right next to us in what was otherwise a very empty café. Kate and I soon relocated, so if you start to notice this, please stick with the interview as the listening gets much easier soon after.

A huge thanks to Kate for joining me.

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One of the most perplexing aspects of the American wine industry is its three-tier system. Introduced post-Prohibition in 1933, the system was designed to prevent monopolies and address tax irregularities—issues rooted in Mafia activity at the time—while also aiming to reduce the social harm associated with alcohol consumption. In essence, the system mandates that alcohol reach consumers through three distinct tiers: producers, distributors, and retailers. For imported wine, the process begins with a licensed importer, who then passes the product to a distributor before it reaches retailers and, ultimately, consumers.

Over the years, this system has faced criticism for being outdated and overly complex. However, it remains the law of the land, making it essential for anyone entering the U.S. wine market to understand and navigate its intricacies. Distributors play a crucial role within this framework, influencing both sales and consumer education. Partnering with a skilled distributor can significantly impact success in the market.

I had the pleasure of meeting Peter Tryba, Portfolio Manager of the Connoisseur Division at Martignetti, one of New England’s oldest and most respected distributors. Our introduction took place at a Chester Osborn tasting event in Boston, organized by Martignetti. After an engaging conversation during the event, I was eager to explore Peter’s insights further.

Peter is passionate about championing exceptional labels through Martignetti, ranging from legacy brands to innovative new producers. With his deep understanding of the distributor's role, Peter brings a unique perspective to the industry. I was thrilled when he agreed to share his thoughts on Martignetti’s history, his own journey, and his views on the evolving U.S. wine market and the influence distributors have in shaping trends.

A heartfelt thanks to Peter for joining me in this fascinating discussion.

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Jeronimo Ramales is the Wine Director at Prima, an acclaimed Italian restaurant nestled in Boston’s historic Charlestown district. Originally from Mexico, Jeronimo’s journey into hospitality began after he moved to New York, where he discovered a world far removed from his non-drinking background. His curiosity was piqued by the intricacies of restaurant wine lists, sparking a passion for wine that would soon become his calling.

Jeronimo quickly advanced in the industry, taking on senior wine management roles for restaurants in New York then Boston where he has been director for both Capo and Prima restraurants. Our paths crossed during a D’Arenberg tasting hosted by the vibrant Chester Osborn in Boston’s North End, where Jeronimo’s enthusiasm for Italian wines was immediately evident.

In this episode, we sit down in Charlestown to explore Jeronimo’s story, the landscape of Boston’s hospitality scene, and his approach to crafting the ideal wine list for Prima’s patrons. A heartfelt thank you to Jeronimo for sharing his journey and insights with us.

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In Season 3, Episode 9, I sat down with Doug Neal to cover the basics of oak in winemaking—a conversation that became a fan favorite. Doug's deep passion for oak is contagious; as a former history teacher turned wine maker and expert, he brings a wealth of knowledge and a unique perspective on the subject. So, naturally, I couldn’t resist inviting him back for a deeper dive.

In this episode, we get into the finer details: the specific forests oak comes from, how it’s prepared for barrel making, its nuanced impact on different wine styles, and even the current state of the oak market. Doug's insights and stories are pure gold for any wine enthusiast, and he didn’t hold back.

Grab your notepad, because you’ll want to jot down Doug’s tips and tidbits. I hope you enjoy this fascinating exploration of oak with the ever-knowledgeable "Dougmeister" himself!

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They don’t come much cooler than Chris Morisoli. He flies UH-60 Black Hawk helicopters, he’s completed deployments in Iraq and Afghanistan as a MEDEVAC polite rescuing wounded soldiers out of firefights and flying them to safety, he has served more or less his entire life as a volunteer fire fighter and – oh yes – he is the latest generation of the Morisoli family who are custodians of some of the most magical vineyards in the Rutherford Bench, and the entire Napa Valley for that matter. One might say the Morisoli story is the story of Rutherford. It spans the Italian migration to the United States, prohibition and the rise of the Napa Valley. Chris was born in 1984 and has Rutherford Dust in his veins. He grew up running in and out of the vines and you might be forgiven for seeing his return to the vines post deployment as inevitable.

Chris’s story and the Morisoli story is one of the most genuine and remarkable stories one will find. And yes – like most special things – you have to find it – tucked away in the shadows of the Mayacamas Mountain range, just off Highway 29, down Niebaum Lane, here lies a historic charming little house surrounded by historic vineyards that whisper memories and stories. This is Chris’s home and the home of the Morisoli legacy. Like most who are part of small family businesses, Chris spends most of his time on the tools, in the vineyard, in the winery or in the car, so cornering him for a chat is no small thing. Hence my elation when we finally settled on a time. This was a truly special conversation to have. My sincerest thanks to Chris for joining me.

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I’ve been living in the USA since April, with April through July immersed in the vibrant Santa Barbara Wine Country alongside Wes Hagen and his wife, Chanda. Longtime listeners will know Wes as a foundational figure in this region, notably for his work in establishing many of Santa Barbara’s AVAs. But next to Wes stands Chanda, his steadfast partner and inspiration, whom he met at a Grateful Dead cover band gig—how Californian! Together, they welcomed me into the heart of Santa Barbara, offering an insider’s view of its history, personality, and the essence of its young and dynamic wine industry. After my deep dive into Santa Barbara, Wes had a unique idea: flip the script and put me in the hot seat. Though it took some persuasion, I finally agreed to let Wes give me a taste of my own medicine. We share a passion for wine, history, and the bigger questions of meaning, which fueled hours of effortless conversation. In this episode, we focused on our shared love of wine and the color it channels. I owe a big thank you to Wes for hosting this lively conversation and to both Wes and Chanda for their generous hospitality. Enjoy this special episode!

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